![]() ![]() In fact, it took only 10 minutes of using the trial version to convince me to buy the full, Pro version. Although this is a lot, I obviously believed it was worth it. There is a less expensive lite version but the Pro is worth it for me. I paid nearly $50 for the Pro version of the software. The one thing which surprised me was the cost. Neck Diagrams is everything I’ve always wanted in software for chord or scale diagrams. Which brings me to the next software tool I just purchased – for what I consider to be a decent amount of money. However, if it saved graphic images I certainly would have paid a decent amount for the software. I don’t want to buy a subscription to this product. Here’s an example of choosing alternate chord names.Īnd here are the options for sharing (Print, Save PDF, Email PDF). But it mostly works and is a great portable reference and study tool. For example moving the diagrams, editing a diagram and so forth don’t always respond to my taps and touches the way they should. I’ve found it difficult to use this and other features at times. ![]() You can’t give it a name that isn’t in its database. If the chord name isn’t the one you intended, you can force it to use an alternate name from a list of possible names. The software attempts to determine the chord name from the notes you’ve placed on the diagram. These can be for study, for chord books (reference) or even can be used to show the chords to tunes. However, it can also be frustrating to use and has limited functionality regarding creating images for use elsewhere. I’ve had this app on my iPad for some time now. It is available for Mac or Windows but there are no mobile versions yet. The software is free but requires a subscription for sharing. I’m using it on my iPad but there is also a version for Mac and through a web browswer. There are two products I want to talk about. I’d say it’s time for me to tell you about these products and how they can help you. I’ve recently been using software for this task that didn’t exist back in 2011. What truss rod are you planning to use? Do you want the adjustment at the heel or at the headstock? I usually put the adjustment at the heel when I go skinny on a neck to leave as much wood as possible at the headstock transition.It’s been almost 3 years since I wrote about software for creating chord and scale diagrams. The other question would be what exactly do you call a thin neck? 20mm (.797")? 18mm (.709")? I try not to go thinner than 7mm (.276") in such cases. It definitely helps with slimmer profiles. The latter two will dictate the taper of the neck.Ī thicker fretboard will give the truss rod channel a relatively lower position into the neck, which will have an impact on how much wood you can remove at the back, but it also makes for a less flexible neck since the woods used for fretboards tend to be harder and stiffer. Fretboard thickness, depth of the truss rod channel route, nut width (and desired distance between the strings and the sides of the fretboard) and string spread at the bridge. There are a few factors that need to be taken into account when drawing a neck profile that make it hard to do 'one fits all' templates. ![]()
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